Captain Dan Moore Marine Surveyor - S.A.M.S.-S.A.
Frequently Asked Questions . . .
Captain Dan,
You quoted me a price to survey a boat and later I saved $100 by using one
of your local competitors. I understand a little bit of price difference but are
you too expensive?
Michael,
Charleston.
Michael,
Survey prices in this area are quoted based on a per foot basis with
certain adjustments made for the age and complexity of the vessel. Some
surveyors charge extra for preparing the document and photos. I include this
in my rate.
Most marine pros charge from $50 to $80 dollars per hour in Charleston. On
average, a survey will take most of a day physically on the boat. The
document preparation then takes from 2 to 8 hours to complete.
Document prep time depends on how many valuation comps are available,
how many safety recommendations have to be written, research into a
particular boat brand's construction technique, and other available internet
information for a particular boat.
While on board, I will inventory the major systems including model
and serial numbers for your future reference, visualize and photograph all
major systems, including an aloft inspection of standing rigging on a sailboat,
crawl over deck areas looking for cracks and sounding for soft spots that may
cost you significant money in the future or even compromise the integrity of
your boat. I also inspect bilges, conduct a sea-trial, inspect the wetted
surface during a haul-out and render an opinion for your own risk
assessment.
In the process of the above inspection, I may use factory calibrated low
frequency moisture meters, infrared thermometers, wireless online data
sources, electronic off-line data sources, digital photography, a digital
volt/ohm meter with or without a silver/silver chloride (Ag/AgCl) reference cell
as well as old fashioned eyeballs and experience.
I am a university graduate. I also completed a post baccalaureate program in
physics and chemistry. I am a member of the largest world wide marine survey
accrediting organization. I am certified by the American Boat and Yacht
Council in areas including marine electrical and marine corrosion. I am a US
Coast Guard licensed master and a member of the National Fire Protection
Association. I also have years of powerboating, sailboating and boat
surveying experience.
In short, I am a professional in my industry and feel that professional
compensation is appropriate. If I can ever be of service to you in the future, I
look forward to working with you.
Enjoy your new boat!
Dan
You quoted me a price to survey a boat and later I saved $100 by using one
of your local competitors. I understand a little bit of price difference but are
you too expensive?
Michael,
Charleston.
Michael,
Survey prices in this area are quoted based on a per foot basis with
certain adjustments made for the age and complexity of the vessel. Some
surveyors charge extra for preparing the document and photos. I include this
in my rate.
Most marine pros charge from $50 to $80 dollars per hour in Charleston. On
average, a survey will take most of a day physically on the boat. The
document preparation then takes from 2 to 8 hours to complete.
Document prep time depends on how many valuation comps are available,
how many safety recommendations have to be written, research into a
particular boat brand's construction technique, and other available internet
information for a particular boat.
While on board, I will inventory the major systems including model
and serial numbers for your future reference, visualize and photograph all
major systems, including an aloft inspection of standing rigging on a sailboat,
crawl over deck areas looking for cracks and sounding for soft spots that may
cost you significant money in the future or even compromise the integrity of
your boat. I also inspect bilges, conduct a sea-trial, inspect the wetted
surface during a haul-out and render an opinion for your own risk
assessment.
In the process of the above inspection, I may use factory calibrated low
frequency moisture meters, infrared thermometers, wireless online data
sources, electronic off-line data sources, digital photography, a digital
volt/ohm meter with or without a silver/silver chloride (Ag/AgCl) reference cell
as well as old fashioned eyeballs and experience.
I am a university graduate. I also completed a post baccalaureate program in
physics and chemistry. I am a member of the largest world wide marine survey
accrediting organization. I am certified by the American Boat and Yacht
Council in areas including marine electrical and marine corrosion. I am a US
Coast Guard licensed master and a member of the National Fire Protection
Association. I also have years of powerboating, sailboating and boat
surveying experience.
In short, I am a professional in my industry and feel that professional
compensation is appropriate. If I can ever be of service to you in the future, I
look forward to working with you.
Enjoy your new boat!
Dan
Dan: Will a solar panel give me enough energy to power my refrigeration?
-Bob in Edisto
Dear Bob:
The easy answer is, "maybe".
I don't know what type of refrigeration you have, but the most popular types on small
power and sailboats are 12 Volt DC, air cooled.
They vary in power requirements, but typically can require 10 - 12 amps to start and
4 -7 amps while running continuously.
With this in mind, you'd need a panel capable of producing this output. Since this may
not be practical due to size limitations and expense, a storage battery is usually
incorporated in the circuitry to allow for start-up demands and back-up resources while
in operation. (The refrigerator will cycle and not run continuously.)
For example, if you have full sunlight every day for 8 - 10 hours, (this might happen in
the tropics most of the time-less time and fewer days further away) you may be able to
charge a battery with a 3 - 4 amp (36 - 48 watt) panel sufficiently to operate a well
insulated refrigerator continuously.
I realize there were quite a few qualifiers in the above example. That's why I started this
answer with, well "maybe".
A good alternative energy plan is just that-a plan. Solar is without moving parts and
tends to need less tending-but don't forget wind generation.
Wind generators used with solar panels make up what I believe is the best combination.
Typically, around here anyway, when there's no sun, there is wind. (There is plenty of
good reading out there on the subject. Let me know if you'd like some suggestions.)
All of this costs a bit in the pocketbook, but not being dependent on fossil fuel is awfully
comforting.
One word of caution: If you install a solar panel, be sure that there is some type of
power regulation in-line. Some panels have this built in while others do not. This keeps
the batteries from being overcharged and boiling electrolyte and with proper diodes,
prevents discharges at night.
Fair Winds,
Dan.
-Bob in Edisto
Dear Bob:
The easy answer is, "maybe".
I don't know what type of refrigeration you have, but the most popular types on small
power and sailboats are 12 Volt DC, air cooled.
They vary in power requirements, but typically can require 10 - 12 amps to start and
4 -7 amps while running continuously.
With this in mind, you'd need a panel capable of producing this output. Since this may
not be practical due to size limitations and expense, a storage battery is usually
incorporated in the circuitry to allow for start-up demands and back-up resources while
in operation. (The refrigerator will cycle and not run continuously.)
For example, if you have full sunlight every day for 8 - 10 hours, (this might happen in
the tropics most of the time-less time and fewer days further away) you may be able to
charge a battery with a 3 - 4 amp (36 - 48 watt) panel sufficiently to operate a well
insulated refrigerator continuously.
I realize there were quite a few qualifiers in the above example. That's why I started this
answer with, well "maybe".
A good alternative energy plan is just that-a plan. Solar is without moving parts and
tends to need less tending-but don't forget wind generation.
Wind generators used with solar panels make up what I believe is the best combination.
Typically, around here anyway, when there's no sun, there is wind. (There is plenty of
good reading out there on the subject. Let me know if you'd like some suggestions.)
All of this costs a bit in the pocketbook, but not being dependent on fossil fuel is awfully
comforting.
One word of caution: If you install a solar panel, be sure that there is some type of
power regulation in-line. Some panels have this built in while others do not. This keeps
the batteries from being overcharged and boiling electrolyte and with proper diodes,
prevents discharges at night.
Fair Winds,
Dan.
Dear Captain Dan:
My broker has a survey. It was performed by a surveyor within the last year and
my insurance agent says that it's good enough to get insurance. Do you think
that I should use it or get a new survey? I suspect that I know the answer but
just wondered what you would say.
Thanks,
David.
-Seabrook Island.
David:
I'll be brief and to the point. The old survey was prepared by someone who was
not working for you. The old survey was good on the day it was prepared. (Has
the boat been run aground, overheated, in a storm, flooded or dismasted since?
. . . don't know!)
I can certainly appreciate the fact that using the old survey may save
you-depending on the size of the boat-from
a few hundred to a thousand dollars or maybe more.
Let me make this suggestion: If the survey price is such a great personal
expense that you would consider using one created for someone else, which is
one year old, then why not buy a smaller, less expensive boat that is more within
your budget and use the money saved to have it surveyed. You may find that
later when expenses based on the size of the boat such as berthing and bottom
cleaning/painting come up, you are happy to have a smaller vessel.
Thanks for the letter,
Dan.
My broker has a survey. It was performed by a surveyor within the last year and
my insurance agent says that it's good enough to get insurance. Do you think
that I should use it or get a new survey? I suspect that I know the answer but
just wondered what you would say.
Thanks,
David.
-Seabrook Island.
David:
I'll be brief and to the point. The old survey was prepared by someone who was
not working for you. The old survey was good on the day it was prepared. (Has
the boat been run aground, overheated, in a storm, flooded or dismasted since?
. . . don't know!)
I can certainly appreciate the fact that using the old survey may save
you-depending on the size of the boat-from
a few hundred to a thousand dollars or maybe more.
Let me make this suggestion: If the survey price is such a great personal
expense that you would consider using one created for someone else, which is
one year old, then why not buy a smaller, less expensive boat that is more within
your budget and use the money saved to have it surveyed. You may find that
later when expenses based on the size of the boat such as berthing and bottom
cleaning/painting come up, you are happy to have a smaller vessel.
Thanks for the letter,
Dan.
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Copyright © 2002 – 2007 Captain Daniel Moore Marine Services